Things to consider during a wet growing season:

• Drought versus Saturation
• Location Location Location
• Cause and Effect

Drought versus Saturation

In our previous article, Drought Issues and How to Protect Your Trees, we provide some tips on understanding and dealing with drought during the growing season. It is also important to understand rainy weather and a potentially saturated growing season. For root health and growth, the proper amount of air is as important in the soil as water. Roots need to “breathe”, and too much water can suffocate them.

One big difference between drought and too much rain is that it’s easier to add water when it’s lacking than it is to take water away once things are already saturated. If your soil is wet and muddy after the rain has stopped, allow the site to drain and dry a bit before planting.

Location Location Location

The best way to avoid the effects of steady, heavy rain on your trees is to know your planting site before planting — we can’t stress this enough! The planting site you choose is your tree’s new home. It will have to endure the best and worst effects of the environment there. Take a walk, or a look, while it’s raining and note where water accumulates. For example, if your downspouts are sending water all to one place, consider redirecting them to evenly distribute water for better drainage. Choose your planting site wisely*:

• A well-drained site is your best bet against flooding
• Don’t plant next to a river, creek, or other body of water that may flood in heavy rains
• Plant on a slope with a berm to allow water drainage, air circulation, and avoid erosion

Berm: An artificial ridge or raised bank

*Just like you would get in touch with your local utilities companies prior to digging planting holes — to avoid interfering with gas, electric, and other lines — be sure to contact your local county Extension service and/or your local licensed tree-care professionals. These experts will be able to advise you on your planting site and work with you to easily avoid an array of potential problems, especially if you live in an urban setting.

Peach trees planted on a sloping landscape with Berm to prevent erosion
• Notice the slope from back to front in this photo

More of the sloping landscape that allows for adequate water drainage
• Notice the slope from right to left in this photo

Encircled: Peach trees planted on poorly-drained flat land;
• Notice difference in development of trees (encircled) and trees on slope (at right)

Cause and Effect

As you can see in the photos above, there is a noticeable difference between the peach trees that were planted on a slope with a berm and the peach trees that were planted on a flat, level, site just below that. In this case, the trees in the lower, flat land are still living, but are not as advanced as the neighboring trees planted on slopes around the same time. We won’t hesitate to emphasize, one more time, the importance of a good location!

A wet spring is not uncommon in many areas, and, if you plan ahead, you can successfully grow your own trees despite the rainy weather. Read up on more tips to planning your planting site in our article, Fruit Tree Care: Planting Fruit Trees.

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After you plant them, berry plants tend to produce their first crops much more quickly than most fruit trees. You could be enjoying fresh berries sooner than you’d think, so it’s important to be prepared by planning ahead. If you’re eager to liven up your summer salads or start sipping on healthy, homemade fruit smoothies, then let’s get started!

Take a look at how many years it takes for berry plants to bear fruit, so that you can plan for your first harvest.

Stark Bro’s Berry Plants & Vines* | Years to Bear Fruit

Maintenance is also important to getting the most out of your berry plants. Some selections like strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries might try to bloom and set fruit the first year you plant them. You will be doing your plants a favor in the long run if you pinch these flowers off to avoid fruit set in their first year with you. Doing so will allow your new plants to devote their energy to becoming established and growing well so that they can support bigger, better crops of berries for years to come!

And don’t forget — there’s more to these plants and vines than just fruit. Even while you’re waiting for them to reach fruiting maturity, they still make beautiful outdoor accents that will add interest to your landscape with gorgeous foliage that is lush during the growing season and turns various colors in the fall.

*Just like in our article, How many years until your tree bears fruit, these time frames may vary, but all begin counting after your new Stark Bro’s berry plants are transplanted into your growing space!

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In part one of our series on growing fruit trees in containers, we gave you some helpful tips for getting started. In this article, part two of the series, we focus on what you need to do to take proper care of your potted fruit trees, so they can stay healthy, grow and thrive.
 
Watering Potted Trees
One of the number-one threats to a young potted tree is overwatering. Once the tree is planted in the container, it is very important to keep a close eye on it and only water when needed. While you want to avoid letting the soil dry out completely, daily watering may not be necessary. You should water when the soil is dry to the touch a couple inches below the surface. The sun may play a part in drying it out, so be aware of exposure to the location of your tree. This can vary if the tree is moved at different times of year.

Note: Mature trees in containers outdoors, during the months where they are in full leaf (late spring, all through summer), can’t get enough water. You might notice that water appears to run through the roots and right out the bottom of the pot. Your mature, leafed-out trees would benefit from daily watering, until the temperatures cool off and the trees begin to harden off for the winter again.

Fertilizing Container Fruit Trees
Many potting soil mixes come with fertilizer included. If you are using a mix like that, then you will not need to fertilize additionally at planting time. However, you may choose to fertilize during the growing season. If you do, be sure to use a water-soluble fertilizer, like Stark® Tre-Pep®, so that the roots are able to absorb the nutrients successfully.

Winterizing Trees in Containers
Just like trees planted in your yard or anywhere outdoors, trees in containers benefit from winter care and protection. After your tree becomes dormant in the fall, there are a few important actions you should take:

• Pruning will give you the chance to remove any damaged, dead or diseased limbs, and it plays a key role in the survival, stimulation, shaping and production of your tree.
• Watering the soil around the roots will help to avoid freeze damage if you have not yet prepared to bring your container indoors, and the weather calls for a cold snap.
• Mulching over the surface of the soil helps to insulate the roots and protect them from the winter elements if your potted tree must remain outdoors for the winter.

For additional details or to learn more about winterizing, check out our article, Fruit Tree Care: Winterizing Your Plants. Be sure to check out winter-care information specifically for fig trees in our article, Fig Trees on Wheels!

When it comes down to it, growing fruit trees in containers can be just like growing them in a backyard. With the same kind of care, you can have your very own container orchard on your balcony, patio, sunroom or wherever you want!

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With the Grow Your Own movement rooting itself in our everyday lives, people everywhere are enhancing their yards (and their diets) by growing their own fruit. Some are lucky enough to have a large enough area to plant their own orchard, but others who don’t have as much room might feel like they don’t have a lot of options. Not true! If you’re renting an apartment, have limited or no space, or just want something for your patio, you should try growing your fruit trees in containers. In this article, which is part one of a two-part series, we focus on what you need to know to get started with this fun and surprisingly easy process.
 
Choosing the Right Container
Most people choose to grow fruit trees in containers for easy mobility. For this purpose, the ideal container size is about 10-15 gallons — substantial enough to support a tree, but small enough to move easily. This size is perfect if you’re growing in a window or on a balcony or patio, so you can bring the tree indoors for protection when the weather starts getting too cold. It also comes in handy if you need to relocate your tree to an unheated garage, shed, basement or cellar during winter.

And containers are perfect for growing warm-weather varieties, like citrus trees, banana plants, or fig trees you’ll find at Stark Bro’s, in areas where the climates are cooler than where they grow naturally.

If you want to start out smaller, then try a 7-gallon container. As the tree grows in a container of this size, it will eventually become root-bound. At that point, you can simply re-pot it into a larger container. You will be able to tell that your tree has become root-bound to its current container by its lack of vertical growth. It will still produce leaves and even fruit at this point, but you might want to start looking for something bigger to support continual growth and increased production.

No matter what size you choose, your tree won’t grow at all for very long if it doesn’t have adequate drainage. Make sure the container you use has holes (usually in the bottom and/or sides), so that any excess water can drain, and air can access the soil. This will help you to prevent potentially fatal diseases like root rot.

Planting in Containers
It is important to choose the right soil. Potting soil is best, since it is specially designed for container planting, and it is easy to find at your local garden supply store. You should avoid using top soil, since it is prone to becoming compacted, and it will eventually cause water to run down the inside edges of the container and out the bottom, barely reaching the tree’s roots.

When you are ready to fill your container, you should first add a layer of gravel or rock to the bottom of your container to help with drainage. Then, add some of your soil mix for the roots to rest on, and place your tree in the center of the pot so that it is vertical and straight. After that, add the rest of your soil until the tree is properly situated in the container. Make sure to tamp the soil down around the tree in order to remove any air pockets, just like you would if you were planting your tree in the ground. Give it a thorough watering, and you’re set!

Be sure to check out part two of our series on growing fruit trees in containers, which will focus on the care and upkeep of potted trees.

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The Purpose and Benefits of Victory Gardens

Victory Gardens gained a lot of popularity during World War II, where people across the United States planted fruit, herb and vegetable gardens in backyards, small acreages, communities and public parks to help counter food shortages brought on by the war effort. Growing individual, as well as community, Victory Gardens gave many a sense of pride in their efforts — by helping to ease the stress on the country and provide for their families.

The Stark Bro’s Contribution to the Victory Garden Movement

Paul Stark, brother of former Missouri Governor Lloyd Stark, was greatly involved with Victory Gardens during World War II. The Secretary of Agriculture appointed him to serve as Vice Chairman of the National Garden Advisory Committee. Paul Stark also served as President of the National Victory Garden Institute, which is the organization that originally made the government aware of the need for home production of vegetables and fruits, and mobilized the nation’s top industrialists to participate in the Victory Garden program.

In 1945, President Harry S. Truman named Paul Stark as Director of Home Food Supply of the War Food Administration. His objective was to promote the home production of food and its conservation in the home (canning, drying, etc.).

On his May 21, 1945 appointment sheet Truman wrote, “[Paul Stark] Talked about Victory Gardens… Paul is a fine gentleman. He is very much interested in Victory Gardens program and is anxious to see a Victory Garden started on White House lawn which I fear very much the members of White House staff will not agree to.” (from Off the Record: The Private Papers of Harry S. Truman)

Victory Gardens Today
You might be thinking that the Victory Garden movement sounds a lot like the Grow Your Own movement that is now taking place across the country and throughout the world. What are some other ways you’ve noticed the spirit of Victory Gardens being reflected in your community?

Bare-Root Trees

When you open this package, you will see strips of damp paper around the bare-root tree’s roots. Make sure the paper remains damp, but avoid drenching it. Wrap the tree in its shipping plastic, and store it in a cool, dark place, like an unheated basement, cellar, garage or shed. It is ideal to store the tree at a temperature of 40ºF, but anything under 60ºF should work for a short period of time. This method will help you delay planting for up to a week.

If planting must be delayed for more than 10 days, “heel in” your trees outdoors. To do this, start by digging a sloping trench long and wide enough to hold the roots. Lay the tree in this trench, with the roots against the steep side. Then, cover the roots with soil, and soak with water. As soon as possible, plant this tree in its permanent location as you normally would.

Small Bare-Root Plants

Bare-Root Tree Roots

Some berries and other small bare-root plants can be stored in the lower section of your refrigerator or in the “crisper” drawer. Do not store them with fruits and vegetables unless your plants are completely sealed in plastic (in gallon-sized re-sealable bags, for example). To be extra cautious, you can double-bag your plants in the airtight plastic. Doing so will help you to avoid exposing your plants to the often lethal (to living plants) gases that are naturally given off by produce in your refrigerator.

Potted Plants and Trees

Plants and trees that arrive in temporary containers, like our exclusive EZ Start® Pots, should be treated like houseplants until the outdoor soil warms. Water them occasionally, when the soil appears dry, and keep them in a cool, dark place to encourage dormancy, especially in the fall. When planting time comes, these potted trees and plants will need to be gradually acclimatized (slowly reintroduced) to outdoor temperatures prior to planting in the ground. Doing so will help you to avoid shock and help to ensure the transplanting will be more successful.

Tips for Planting in Winter Weather

If snowfall arrives or freezing temperatures set in when your order arrives, don’t panic! Just follow these simple suggestions:

• Scoop snow away from the planting site; you may find the ground is not frozen yet.
• Remember that snow makes an excellent insulator; the extra moisture is good for plants.
• Keep any frozen topsoil from falling into the planting hole around the root system.
• Do not expose roots to below-freezing temperatures while planting.

If your order arrives in the spring, you might find that your soil may be frozen or otherwise unworkable. If this is the case, you should keep your tree or plant in the package until the daily temperatures are above freezing and the ground thaws. Please note: you may plant, even if the low temperatures are in the high teens, as long as the daytime temperatures are near 40ºF. You can delay planting for up to two or three weeks if you are able to keep the roots from drying out. However, in cases where the delayed period is longer than a week, you should consider applying additional damp paper to bare-root tree roots to provide sufficient enough moisture for longer storage.

There’s no need to worry if you’re not ready to plant right away. If you are facing inclement weather or other unforeseen problems, you can feel confident in your ability to safely store trees and plants for a short period of time until you’re ready to put them in the ground.

What are some methods you’ve used when you’ve had to put off planting?

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Making your own caramel apples can be an elaborate event. Some enjoy making the caramel from scratch and harvesting apples and all the toppings, like almonds, pecans, walnuts and more, from trees in their own backyard. This kind of process can be a fun and meaningful annual tradition for the whole family.

We were looking for something a bit simpler, so we bought our caramel pre-made. We then hand dipped our apples in the caramel and topped them with tasty complementary nuts. Here’s what we found:

• Our Granny Smith and Pink Lady® apples provided the classic tartness to blend wonderfully with the caramel and nuts.
• Jonathan apples like our exclusive Stark® Jon-A-Red® and the disease-resistant Jonafree have the right combination of sweet and tart flavors to pair well with caramel. Their texture is also easy on the teeth if you’re looking for something that’s not too hard to bite into.
• Our Braeburn apple, the Stark® Braestar™, impressed us with how well it went with caramel. It created the perfect amount of crisp in every caramel-nutty bite.

Caramel Apple Complete

Our snack time is almost over, but before we go, we want to see what kind of caramel apple tips you have for us!

Tell us

What apples are your favorites to coat in caramel and which extras do you like to top them off with?

Canned (Pickled) Crabapples

Preparation Time: 2¼ hours
Yield: Approximately 6 pints

You need:

• 3 pounds crabapples
• 3 cups extra fine granulated sugar or 2½ cups honey
• 2½ cups cider vinegar
• 2½ cups water
• 1 teaspoon whole cloves
• 1 teaspoon whole cardamom seeds
• 3 sticks cinnamon, each broken in 2 or 3 pieces

Directions:

1. Wash the crabapples (discard those that are blemished), wipe clean the blossom ends, and leave the stem intact but trimmed short.
2. Prick the crabapples in 2 or 3 places with a fine skewer and place half in a large kettle. Cover with the sugar (or honey), vinegar, and water. Stir all together.
3. Tie the spices in cheesecloth and add to the crabapples in the kettle.
4. Cover the kettle and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the apples are tender but not falling apart.
5. Remove the crab apples from the hot syrup and put aside. Repeat with the remaining half of the crabapples.
6. When all the crabapples have been cooked, remove the kettle from the heat and return the first batch to the hot syrup.
7. Allow the apples to cool in the syrup.
8. Drain the crabapples, discard the spices, return the syrup to the pan, and bring to the boil.
9. Pack the crab apples into pint or quart jars, cover with the boiling syrup to within ¼ inch of the tops, and screw on the lids.
10. Process for 20 minutes in a boiling water bath.

The recipe above was excerpted from Granny Smith’s Apple Cookbook © Olwen Woodier used with permission from Storey Publishing.

*Note: There are also edible varieties of crabapple that are slightly larger and much sweeter. If you are using sweet, edible crabapples in this recipe — like Chestnut Crabapple or Whitney Crabapple — consider adjusting the amount of sweetener used (sugar or honey), since such a large quantity will not be necessary.

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Erect blackberry plants grow upright and tend to stand on their own without needing any additional support. These are ideal if you are hoping to grow these plants in containers or if you are adding them as a point of interest in your home garden.

• Browse our erect blackberry plants to see which ones are best suited for your location.

Semi-erect blackberry plants have a spreading nature and will require a little support, in the form of a trellis, to continue to grow up and off the ground.

• Our selection of semi-erect blackberry plants includes:
• Chester Thornless Blackberry
• Natchez Thornless Blackberry
• Triple Crown Thornless Blackberry
   

  Don’t stress out about finding the “perfect” trellis design. There’s no such thing! There are many forms a trellis can take, like an existing fence or a sturdy railing. Most blackberry plants grow to be an average of 4-5 feet tall and wide. Make sure you keep that information handy to help you design your ideal trellis system. You can usually find a trellis at your local hardware store, or make your own — it’s easier than you might think!

  Our book, Pruning Made Easy, provides useful information about pruning and care for the different growing habits of blackberries. You can also find illustrations of different kinds of blackberry trellises from the North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension Service if you want to try your hand at constructing your own!

  

  Homemade Trellis
  via DeWayne Harrell of HobbyBerries

   

  Some other berry plants besides blackberries might also require trellises.

  Our selection of trailing berry plants includes:

  • Thornless Boysenberry
  • Thornless Loganberry

  » Do you trellis your blackberry plants? What are some advantages to using a trellis that you have discovered along the way?

   

   

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Technically summer doesn’t end until September 21st this year, so there’s plenty of time to enjoy the fruits of summer before you make way for the hordes of gourds come fall. One summertime staple you don’t want to miss out on is lemonade.

Lemonade, a timeless summer favorite, can be found ubiquitously throughout the nation. Neighbors in seersucker shorts zip by on riding mowers while balancing an icy glass of lemonade in one hand; parents serve it from frosted glass pitchers to keep their busy, rambunctious children hydrated in the summer heat; and passersby purchase small cups of lemonade from stands run by children learning the excitement of handling their first small business. Lemonade both quenches thirst and invokes a strong sense of summertime nostalgia found in people of all ages.

To spice up an old classic, I like to use Meyer lemons in place of conventional lemons. Meyer lemons are a natural hybrid of a conventional lemon and a mandarin orange, so you get equal parts tart and sweet, which cuts back a significant amount of bitterness. An added bonus is that Meyer lemons tend to yield higher amounts of juice than your regular everyday lemon.

Because I am never satisfied with convention, I also add in a handful of blueberries and a few fresh leaves of basil. Basil in lemonade may sound odd but, aside from its abundant use within savory Italian dishes, basil lends a significant sweetness to any beverage or food item you add it to, and can easily be substituted for, or with, mint.

So dry those summer-mourning tears, pop in some Beach Boys and sit back on your patio with a mason jar of blueberry lemonade while enjoying what’s left of the dog days of 2012. If there’s one thing we all know it’s that summer ends too soon, so make every second of every last fruit of the season count.

Blueberry Basil Meyer Lemonade

Ingredients

• 1 cup hot water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 ½ cup blueberries
• 2 cups Meyer lemon juice
• 5 or 6 basil leaves, crushed (plus two per glass for garnish)
• 1 Meyer lemon, sliced for garnish
• Ice

Directions

Combine hot water and sugar and stir until sugar dissolves to produce a simple syrup. Add this simple syrup and blueberries to a blender and blend until liquefied. Strain through a sieve to rid of blueberry solids and skim foam off the top of the liquid for a more clear drink. Add the blueberry juice, Meyer lemon juice, crushed basil, and ice to a pitcher and chill for an hour (or until cold). Serve with basil and lemon garnish.

—

Kerry Patrick is the author of the sardonic food blog with two parts recipes for the home cook and one part satire. Kerry has a penchant for travel and organic and local foods, and would claim to develop only the healthiest recipes, but his love affair with sugar and butter forbids him from doing so. For more sweet recipes and salty humor, you can connect with Kerry on his food blog, Yum and Yummer, and on Twitter @YumAndYummer.

Below, we have listed and debunked some of the most common growing myths.

“A fruit tree will die after it has a bumper crop.”

While some fruit trees might rest the following year to recuperate and store nutrients needed for fruit production, producing a bumper crop does not directly deliver demise. Even after bumper crops, fruit trees continue to live and produce in future years!

Plum Bumper Crop

“More fertilizer means more flowers or fruit.”

Most fertilizers are high in Nitrogen, which encourages vegetative growth (branches and leaves) but actually deters blossom production. Over-fertilizing is not encouraged.

“Cross-pollinated varieties will produce hybrid fruit.”

Most trees require cross-pollination to produce fruit, but any resulting hybrid characteristics from this cross-pollination would only occur in the seeds of the fruit. Hybrid fruit could only result from planting those hybrid seeds and eventually getting fruit from future seedlings. However, seedling trees don’t always produce viable fruit, so there is a good possibility you might never see any hybrid fruit at all. To learn more about seedlings and their differences with grafted trees, check out our article, The Science of Grafting.

Pruning Forms
(click to view)

“Pruned trees take longer to grow.”

Pruning actually encourages growth! This process eliminates weak, “leggy” growth that is not structurally beneficial and helps create a balance between fruiting wood and vegetative wood, so that you can avoid these potential issues:

• Too much fruiting wood — not enough vegetative wood to absorb nutrients and support numerous fruit.
• Too much vegetative wood — not enough fruiting wood to be a productive fruit tree

Find out more about how pruning creates balance and encourages growth in our article, Pre-Pruning Fruit Trees, which also features a helpful video.

Black Raspberry Plant

“Blackberry plants cannot be planted near raspberry plants.”

This myth is the result of confusion between blackberry and black raspberry plants. Blackberries are in the clear; however, black raspberries should not be planted within 75-100 feet of any other berries, because they are more susceptible to viral diseases (like Raspberry Mosaic Disease) that can be carried from adjoining plants.

“Trees that receive the same care should grow the same.”

Trees, like people, are unique and should be treated and cared for individually. Trees of the same type or age that are planted at the same time may grow at different rates. This is normal! Another thing to keep in mind is that no two planting locations — not even in the same yard — are identical.

Soil elements can have a different composition from one spot to another and drainage may vary. It is highly recommended that you become familiar with your soil prior to planting. A great place to start is your local county’s Cooperative Extension System Office. This is an excellent resource that will be able to provide a soil test for you for a small fee.

—

You might have heard some of these gardening and growing myths, too, so hopefully, this article has helped to ease your mind and put them to rest. Can you think of any gardening or growing myths that aren’t listed here? We’d love to hear them!

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Mimosa Summer Blooms

A Mimosa, also called a silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), has a unique, almost tropical look. This appearance is fitting, since it thrives in warm, southern climates — it’s even hardy up to zone 10! These attractive flowering trees, like our E H Wilson Mimosa, are fast-growing and drought-tolerant. Even this year, during an intense drought in most of the country, people who have an E H Wilson Mimosa growing in their yard have been delighted by the inflorescences (showy pink flower clusters) dotted along the bipinnate (fern-like) leaves of this tree.

Mimosa Flowers & Leaves

The tree’s broad canopy, dappled with silky flowers, is a haven for bees, butterflies and hummingbirds, which are attracted to its sweet fragrance. Plus, as an additional point of interest, the leaves fold closed in the evenings and when it rains — quite a sight to see!

Mimosa Canopy

For additional information about growing your own E H Wilson Mimosa tree, check out our helpful Growing Guide.

Note: In some areas, particularly in the south, the Mimosa tree may be considered invasive. Please check with your local county extension service or other tree professionals for advice before planting, and avoid planting near septic systems, sidewalks and other structures.

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While the quote above may be an exaggeration, it does serve to highlight the fact that many growers struggle to figure out the proper ripening and eating times for pears. In this post, we will teach you everything you need to know for picking, ripening, and enjoying homegrown pears.

Did you know pears don’t ripen on the tree? While most types of fruit reach their peak on the branch or vine, pears need to be picked before ripening. If left on the tree, pears ripen from the inside out and, by the time they seem to be at the ripe stage, they are beyond it — usually mushy with a mealy texture beneath the skin.

To avoid such results, you must pick pears when they are mature but not yet fully ripened. Figuring out exactly when this time comes can be difficult. When in season, a mature pear will still be firm to the touch, so feel won’t be a strong indicator. You can’t really go by sight either; a mature pear could be a variation of colors, like green, yellow, or even blush, depending on the variety.

Mature Pears, Harvested

Starking® Delicious™ Pears on Tree

The best way to tell if a pear is ready to harvest is by taking the fruit in your hand and tilting it horizontally. The mature fruit will easily come away from the branch at this angle (as opposed to its natural vertical hanging position). If it is not yet ready for picking, it will hold on to the branch.

Once harvested, most pears will require about a week to ripen at room temperature (about 65-72ºF). If you store the fruit in a paper bag, you can speed up this process so that it will ripen in just a few days. You may also choose to store your harvested pears with an apple or banana — fruits that are more prone to releasing ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening process.

Pear season is coming! In a typical year, it starts in August for those of us in zones 5 and 6. If you are growing your own, make sure you are prepared!

The information above applies to European Pears. Asian Pears tend to ripen just fine on the tree. To learn more about ripening and other differences between these two kinds of pears, check out our article, Growing & Preserving Pears.

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Water keeps trees, both new and established, in good health. As a backyard grower, you may find that your trees are not growing as much as expected during seasons of drought. This could actually be the result of dry, hot conditions, which can and do stunt growth as well. A drought-like growing season for your trees can result in lack of fruit production, lack of fruit quality/taste, or even failure to live the following year. There is no “one perfect way” to water, but watering smartly will greatly benefit your trees in the long run.

Trees that are weakened by the heat and lack of moisture are also prone to winter health concerns. If a tree is weakened by drought during the growing season, then it will not be able to adequately store reserves to sustain it through the winter.

Wilted and scorched leaves are some of the telltale signs that your trees are under stress. Transpiration — a botanical term for when a tree gives off water vapor through the tiny pores in its leaves known as “stomata” — occurs naturally, but when the roots aren’t able to provide enough moisture to replenish this loss, scorching occurs, most noticeably in the leaves.

Leaf scorch on persimmon

Visual transpiration of pecan leaf

For young trees, it is important to maintain a regular schedule for watering. In normal conditions, apply around one gallon of water to each young tree every 7-10 days. This is equivalent to an average inch of rainfall in the same amount of time. During times of drought, it is recommended that you water your new trees at least twice each week (one gallon per tree, twice per week). If there is adequate rainfall in a given season, you should not need to apply additional water to your trees.

Older trees generally don’t require additional watering but — in times of need — you may want to consider watering 2-3 times in a month. Edit [07.06.12]: This water amount will vary depending on the development of the established older trees. As long as sufficient watering is applied around the root system, your drought-stressed older trees will be grateful. Bear in mind, a tree’s roots spread under ground at least as wide as the branches do above ground. Here at Stark Bro’s we have about 200 acres of trees that have required near constant irrigation this summer.

Irrigating Stark Bro’s Rootstock

In any conditions, general watering rules*apply:

Mulch around tree

• Avoid watering during the hottest point of the day.
• Pay attention to when and where water is needed.**
• Add a layer of mulch to help keep moisture from evaporating back off, so that the water (and your effort) is most beneficial to your trees.

*Many counties and states have very different regulations on water usage so be sure to keep informed and adhere to your county/state’s recommendations and restrictions.

**This may vary depending on individual local conditions

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Last week, I had the pleasure of joining our Chief Production Officer, Elmer, on a trip to the historic town of Defiance, Missouri. It was in this historical area that folk hero Daniel Boone and his family settled in 1799. His son, Nathan Boone, constructed a limestone house in which Daniel passed away in 1820. It still stands to this day.

Near this historic home is the Daniel Boone Hays house, where Daniel Boone’s grandson lived. On this property sits some old fruit and nut trees. Braving areas where poison oak roamed and ticks ran rampant, we found a 220-year-old, thriving, champion black walnut tree, an apple orchard of four trees, and one lone pear tree hanging onto life.

Elmer’s expert eye could tell that these fruit trees were cultivars — actual varieties and not seedlings.

Daniel Boone traveled from Kentucky to what would later become Missouri in 1799. In much the same way, Our Story begins in 1816 with James Hart Stark and a small band of pioneers leaving Kentucky and settling on the western banks of the Mississippi, in a place that would later become Louisiana, Missouri. Just 17 years and about 60 miles from one another!

Could these fruit and nut trees have been purchased from Stark Bro’s? What do you think?

220 Year Old “Champion” Black Walnut

Old Apple Tree

Old Pear Tree Leaves

Old Pear Tree Trunk