Plants grown in a greenhouse must be acclimated carefully before planting or placing them outdoors. This is especially true in hot or sunny locations. Many species should never be grown in full sun. Before purchasing a plant, learn about its sun requirements. Knowing the plants requirements can avoid any damage to the plant by incorrectly giving it the wrong conditions.
If your plant has been grown in a greenhouse, here are a few steps we recommend you follow:
These are general guide recommendations. Some plants take longer than others to acclimate.
Successfully establishing a young fruit tree starts with your planting site and method. Once a fruit tree is established, it needs little assistance to grow and bear fruit; but you’ll want to make sure you give your trees the right foundation.
Fruit trees require fertile soil for good growth, so before you plant, check your soil pH. Contact your local County Extension Office for information about soil testing in your area, or purchase one of our digital meters for quick and accurate results. Fig trees enjoy a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5.
Figs may also be grown in pots and stored in an unheated basement or garage for the winter. If grown in pots, they should be repotted every second year with fresh soil.
If your fig tree is potted or grown in sand, regular fertilization is usually necessary. A well-balanced fruit tree fertilizer like Stark® Tre-Pep® is recommended. Apply according to label instructions.
Every fruit tree has the future potential for disease and insect damage. Factors such as location and weather will play a part in which issues your tree encounters. If available, disease-resistant trees are the best option for easy care; and for all trees, proper maintenance (such as watering, fertilizing, pruning, spraying, weeding, and fall cleanup) can help keep most insects and diseases at bay.
Disease appears on leaves as a small yellowish-orange spots, then enlarges and spreads as the growing season progresses, eventually causing the leaves to drop.
Disease appears as large yellow spots on the leaves, then a rust colored ring surrounds the spot. Can cause fruit to drop and leaves to be smaller.
Small worms that feed on roots and burrow into the root system and eat the roots causing reddish-brown lesions, leaves will turn brown and wilt. Roots swell reducing their ability to absorb water and nutrients.
First appears as small black, yellow or brown spots on leaves, then spots enlarge and merge to affect entire area.
Usually on bark of young twigs and branches, encrusted with small (1/16”) hard, circular, scaly raised bumps with yellow centers, may also be on fruit. Sap feeding weakens the tree.
Adults are ¼“ long, flat, oval shaped with a white waxy covering. Yellow to orange eggs are laid within an egg sac. Crawlers are yellow to brown in color. Over winters as an egg or very immature young in or near a white, cottony egg sac, under loose bark or in branch crotches, mostly found on north side. Damage is by contamination of fruit clusters with egg sacs, larvae, adults and honeydew, which promotes growth of black sooty mold.
You’ll be happy to know that fig trees need very little pruning! Just basic maintenance is all that’s necessary.
Spraying is important to the survival of your trees. To handle potential diseases and pests, reference the guidelines below to know what you should spray, and when you should use it.
Before you begin, read and follow all instructions on labels.
The watering needs of fig trees is dependent on how it is planted. Use the following guidelines to make sure you fulfill your tree’s watering needs.
If your fig tree is growing in a container it will require watering more frequently. The best way to determine if your container needs water is to check the soil by inserting your finger into it. If the feels dry, water your container.
Unless you’re in an area where irrigation is usually needed for normal plant growth, you probably won’t need to water after the first growing season. Until then, follow these steps to get your new trees off to a great start.
We strongly recommend giving figs winter protection in areas colder than zone 7.
An alternate method is to grow them in large tubs or pots and move them into a cool frost-proof cellar or outside building over winter.
Are you ready to enjoy delicious homegrown fruit? Harvest is the time to enjoy the results of your hard work. Keep a few things in consideration as you reap the fruits of your labor: the best time to pick the fruit from your tree, and how to store the fruit.
Figs should be allowed to ripen fully on the tree. Fruit will be a brown/purple color when ripe. Microorganisms carried into the open eye of the fruit by insects will cause souring, so figs need to be picked as they ripen. Fresh figs will only keep in the refrigerator for a couple of days.
You may want to consider using gloves or wearing long sleeves when harvesting. Fig latex, exposed when the fruit is removed from the tree, can cause skin irritation.
Figs are ever-bearers and produce fruit on shoots that grow this year. Next year, they will produce the first crop of the season on wood that grew the previous year, and a second crop on the new seasons growth. In cooler areas, however, the second crop may not have enough time to ripen before cold weather.
Figs may be dried in an oven or in the sun. In either case, choose fully ripe fruit to dry.
When drying in the sun, leave the stems on.
Figs should be dry after about 2 days. Figs are dry when the outside is firm & leathery but pliable and inside is soft with no sign of juice. Store in refrigerator or freezer in moisture proof bags.