Plants grown in a greenhouse must be acclimated carefully before planting or placing them outdoors. This is especially true in hot or sunny locations. Many species should never be grown in full sun. Before purchasing a plant, learn about its sun requirements. Knowing the plants requirements can avoid any damage to the plant by incorrectly giving it the wrong conditions.
If your plant has been grown in a greenhouse, here are a few steps we recommend you follow:
These are general guide recommendations. Some plants take longer than others to acclimate.
The best way to succeed is to plan before you plant. Let’s discuss location: Do you know where you want to plant your new shrub or grass? Avoid many future problems by considering all aspects of the planting spot, such as:
Your plant would love a sunny place with well-drained, fertile soil. But it will be quite satisfied with six to eight hours of sunlight. Good drainage is required to keep your plant “happy.” If your soil has high clay content, use our Coco-Fiber Potting Medium or add one-third peat to the soil at planting time. We do not recommend planting in heavy, pure clay soils.
Once you’ve found out about fruit growing goodness firsthand, you’ll want to expand your home orchard. It’s important to plan so that the future growth areas will be ready when you are.
With a wide range of forms, color, flowers, and sizes, grass can accent any garden. There are so many types of ornamental grasses with many different landscape purposes: You can use them for screens, hedges, borders, and container plantings, just to name a few.
Preparing your soil before you plant will greatly improve your plant’s performance and promote healthy, vigorous growth. It is a good idea to have your soil tested to determine if it is lacking in any essential minerals and nutrients. This can be done through your County Extension Office or with one of our digital meters.
The goal of soil preparation is to replenish vital minerals and nutrients, as well as break up and loosen any compacted soil.
Soil preparation can be done at any time that the ground is not too wet or frozen. Your trees may be planted even when temperatures are quite cool. If a hard frost is expected, it is advisable to delay planting for a while until temperatures become more moderate. Generally, as long as your soil is workable, it is fine to plant.
Your lawn can provide you with ideal organic materials such as grass clippings and shredded leaves. Not only will the grass and leaves break down to provide soil nutrients, but they will help loosen the soil as well. You can gather these in the fall with spring planting in mind.
Adding organic materials, such as our Coco-Fiber Potting Medium and compost will improve most every soil type. Organic materials bind sandy soil particles so they retain moisture and nutrients better. They also break apart clay and silt particles, so that water can infiltrate and roots can spread.
For the best care, fertilize sparely in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer such as 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio.
Every plant has the future potential for disease and insect damage. Factors such as location and weather will play a part in which issues your plants encounters. If available, disease-resistant varieties are the best option for easy care; and for all types of plants, proper maintenance (such as watering, pruning, spraying, weeding, and cleanup) can help keep most insects and diseases at bay.
Occurs when roots take up water faster than it can be used. Forms tiny swollen blister like areas on leaves.
Natural Control – Avoid over watering, improve the flow of air over the leaves.
Small, worm like insects that feed on roots and foliage depending on the insect. Root feeders cause above ground symptoms, foliage loses its luster and wilts. If prolonged root stress may result in yellowing and eventual loss of foliage. Foliage feeders produce lesions on leaves.
Whitish-gray powdery mold or felt like patches on buds, young leaves and twigs. Leaves may crinkle and curl upward. New shoots are stunted.
Disease appears as orange or brown spots, especially during warm, humid conditions.
Eventually, you may notice that your ornamental grass appears to only produce new growth around the edges of the main plant. At this time you will need to break up that main plant and transplant the divisions as you would new plantings. Carefully break up that clump with a hand trowel or knife until you end up with smaller divisions, usually 1/4 the size of the original main clump. Clean up the smaller divisions (removing dead, damaged, or diseased areas) before transplanting.
Spraying is important to the survival of your plants. To handle potential diseases and pests, reference the guidelines below to know what you should spray, and when you should use it.
Before you begin, read and follow all instructions on labels.
Once established after the first growing season, grasses typically don’t require supplemental watering unless adequate rainfall does not occur. Until then, follow these guidelines to get your new plants off to a great start.