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Weeding Out Common Growing Myths

by Stark Bro's on 08/13/2012

Some people have had gardens and orchards in their families for generations. Experience, knowledge, and wisdom have been handed down to them from the time they were small. However, if you are new to the “grow your own” movement, there’s a good chance you may have questions or need a little encouragement. Naturally, you are likely to turn to the most easily available resource — the Internet. Unfortunately, many of the answers you find online are conflicting and unreliable.

One way to get the most authentic and reliable answer possible is to make sure the information you find is from a reputable source, like university extensions and experts who spend their time testing and researching the topic you’re curious about. In the meantime…

Below are the facts regarding some common growing myths.

Plum Bumper Crop

“A fruit tree will die after it has a bumper crop.”

While some fruit trees might rest the year following a bumper crop, the act of producing a bumper crop in and of itself does not directly deliver a tree’s demise.

In fact, this natural rest period helps the tree to recuperate and store nutrients needed for fruit production so that it may continue to live and produce in future years!

“Using more fertilizer means more flowers and fruit.”

Most fertilizers are high in Nitrogen, which encourages vegetative growth (branches and leaves) but can actually take away from blossom/fruit production. Therefore, only fertilize as needed. Over-fertilizing is not encouraged.

“Cross-pollinated trees will bear hybrid fruit.”

Most trees require cross-pollination to produce fruit. However, characteristics from the trees involved in cross-pollination would occur in the seeds of the fruit, not the immediate fruit itself. If you planted a seed from a cross-pollinated tree’s fruit, the tree that would grow from the seed would eventually bear the hybrid fruit.

It is difficult to predict the characteristics of a fruit that grows from most seed-grown trees. To learn more about seedlings and their differences from grafted trees, check out our article, The Science of Grafting.

Central Leader & Open Center Pruning

“Pruned trees take longer to grow.”

Pruning actually encourages growth! This process eliminates weak, “leggy” growth that is not structurally beneficial and helps create a balance between fruiting wood and vegetative wood, so that you can avoid these potential issues:

  • Too much fruiting wood — not enough vegetative wood to absorb nutrients and support numerous fruit.
  • Too much vegetative wood — not enough fruiting wood to be a productive fruit tree

Find out more about how pruning creates balance and encourages growth in our article, Pre-Pruning Fruit Trees, which also features a helpful video.

Black Raspberry Plant

“Blackberry plants should never be planted near raspberry plants.”

Regarding raspberry mosaic virus, this myth is the result of confusion between blackberry and black raspberry plants. Blackberries are low-risk for contracting mosaic virus; however, black raspberries should not be planted within 75-100 feet of any other berries. This is because black raspberry plants can be more susceptible to viral diseases carried by aphids and may be dangerous to adjoining berry plants as a result.

“Trees that receive the same care should grow the same.”

Trees, like people, are unique and should be treated and cared for individually. Trees of the same type or age that are planted at the same time may grow at different rates. This is normal! Another thing to keep in mind is that no two planting locations — not even in the same yard — are identical.

Soil elements can have a different composition from one spot to another and drainage may vary. It is highly recommended that you become familiar with your soil prior to planting. A great place to start is your local county’s Cooperative Extension System Office. This is an excellent resource that will be able to provide means of a soil sample test for you.

You might have heard some of these gardening and growing myths, too, so hopefully this article has helped to ease your mind and put them to rest. Can you think of any gardening or growing myths that aren’t listed here? We’d love to hear (and debunk) them! Please share in the comments below »


  1. John R permalink

    I had loads of blossoms the year after planting. Peaches bloom on two year wood so it makes sense. Unfortunatly there was a heavy frost NJ state wide and the fruit set died. I read fruit trees will adjust to your locatity in a couple of growing seasons so I’m hoping to get something in 2013.

    • This was a difficult year for new/young trees to handle but, as your peach tree matures, it will develop a feel for the environment it is growing in.

      A lot of our fruit production here was halted because of late frost this past spring, too. We’re right there with you, John; looking forward to a kinder 2013. :)

  2. marc permalink

    The 2 Apple trees I planted 3 years ago have grown very little and are not producing. What can I do to encourage growth?

    • Hi, Marc. Apple trees, depending on maturity, usually take about 2-5 years before they begin bearing fruit. How large are your apple trees in height and also trunk width compared to when you planted them?

      It sounds like you have concerns with how much they’ve developed in the past 3 years, so maybe the soil where they are planted is lacking essential nutrients. It might be ideal to get a soil sample tested by your local County Extension Service so that you have an idea of what your trees might be lacking. Fertilizing may help, but you will want to wait until the spring to begin fertilizing again — it would be harmful for the trees to try to grow when they should be getting prepared for dormancy in the fall/winter. Fertilizers can only do so much, so it is best to have an understanding of the soil in which they’re planted as well. :)

  3. John R permalink

    Cedar Apple Rust can be controlled by Spectracide Immunox. I know Lowes carries it. Don’t buy the Immunex Plus. It’s not listed in the State Ag Extention sites.The main ingrediant is Myclobutnil. (my spelling is poor.) It is rated tops for the big three (Scab, Cedar AR and Powdery Mildew). It is also good for the Stone Fruits as well. But you need to spray it and some don’t like chemical sprays. So Sara’s suggestion is best where you plant resistent varieties. However a bad event could still infect resistant trees. Look inside the cedar trees for small orange star looking balls. That is the “Galls” that cause it. Each one has millions of spores. You could try to remove them if not too many. So a pint jug of Immunox consentrate for around $15.00 is not a bad investment. You would only use less than an a fl.oz. per gallon of spray. In fact, it has been so good that a resistant Scab had developed in several NY Orchards by over use. (it is known as Rally and the old name Nova.) So only use it when needed for cedar apple rust and powdery mildew. The best times to apply can be found in/at your locality by contacting your counties Ag Extention Office. For scab, use captan. That is a primary funguside and there is no resistance for it. Captan can be found in Stark Bros. Bonide Fruit Tree Spray. There’s also a mild insecticide with it’s formulation. Daconil is good for stone fruits but not listed for Pome fruits (apple). The primary Daconil ingediant is Clorathanil. (Again, spelling) Good luck.

    • Excellent and educational response, John, wow! Thank you very much for sharing this. :)

  4. John R permalink

    Sarah, your welcome. I know how hard it is to get information other than planting manuals. I don’t know anyone who grows fruit trees besides myself and some farmers at local roadside fruit stands are tight lipped. I guess I can’t blame them since they don’t know me. So, I pour over internet sites to learn about growing and maintaining fruit trees. I avoid non-college ag sites because they sometimes have misinformation where the college sites have tested everything they say and publish their information. Each state has sites on home fruit orchards. Even recommended varioties to plant in your envirement. There’s spray schedules, local insects, pesticides, funguscides, organic methods etc. it’s endless. Each also have their commercial fruit guides in PDF that have in-depth coverege about everything related to fruit. There’s even a shared site between Cornell, NY and Rutgers, NJ where it records the weather and tempatures (user selected) and then predicts infections and spray days for scab, Cedar AR, Powdery Mildew, Fireblight, and insects like Codling moths, Apple Maggets, Or Fruit Moths, Peach Tree Borers etc. Amazing “FREE” information that can be gathered by us rookies.

    Oh, about my peach comment above, I meant to say “! Year Wood” has the fruiting blossoms.

    Take care, J

    • Thank you again for your insight. There are many reliable free sources for growing and care information. We try to encourage utilizing the local resources like Cooperative Extension System Offices, so that the advice is more fitted to individual areas, as environments can greatly vary!

      It’s not widely-common knowledge (yet) so when I see people like you who use resources like these, I’ll admit, it brings a smile to my face. :D

  5. devra permalink

    i’m curious about “planting myths” because i’ve been having an ongoing discussion with my gardener about what trees to order for a small orchard we are planning. she is concerned that dwarf trees will produce later than semi-dwarf trees and that it is better to get semi-dwarf and then prune them appropriately if size is an issue. any thoughts?

    • That’s kind of an unusual myth, Devra! I can’t say I’ve heard that one before. I’d ask your gardener why she thinks dwarf fruit trees will produce later than semi-dwarf ones. Production depends on the maturity (establishment, trunk girth, etc. — not height) of the fruit tree, and a lot on the nature of the type of tree itself. For example, peach trees will fruit on second-year wood, which would be the case for any-sized peach tree, from dwarf to standard.

      Dwarf fruit trees are ideal for the gardener with not-a-lot of space who wants to be able to harvest a majority of the fruit without needing a ladder to reach it. Semi-dwarf trees are excellent if you have the space for them, but if you’re only going to prune them back to dwarf heights anyway, it seems silly not to plant dwarfs instead!

  6. jesse permalink

    i planted 12 apple trees back in march and they are all doing great the blueberry bushes too.they all seem to like their new home.some of the apple trees and some of the blueberry bushes have blossoms on i need to pick them off or can i let them grow.i have heard it puts stress on them the first year of planting if they try to bear fruit. thanks so much for selling great trees aand plants

    • Thank you for the kind words, Jesse! Great job taking care of your new apple orchard and blueberry patch. :) You’re right — we recommend pinching off the flowers the first year you plant these plants and trees, since they should be putting their energy into getting established in their new home rather than trying to bloom or set fruit.

      • jesse permalink

        i have another question i read that you shouldnt fertilize your trees the first year so they can acclimate to the soil where you planted them is this true or should i give them some tre pep thanks for your help

        • The best way to know if you need to fertilize is to have a soil test done. Your local county Extension should be able to provide this service for a small fee, but your local garden center will most likely carry a soil testing kit so that you can do one yourself. Some locations don’t require the regular use of fertilizers, especially if there is a naturally high amount of nitrogen.

  7. Jim Hess permalink

    I was not able to find on your website what variety root stock you use for your apple trees. I am looking for semi dwarf apple trees that may not require staking. Do you have any suggestions of which of your trees can be grown without stakes?


    • Hi Jim! For our semi-dwarf apple trees, we use M7 or B118 rootstock (depending on factors like the vigor of the variety). In general, apple trees on semi-dwarf rootstocks tend to be more well-anchored than their dwarf counterparts, so semi-dwarf is a good way to go if you want to avoid having to stake your trees. Unless, of course, you plant them in a windy location — we recommend staking regardless of rootstock if wind tends to be an issue.

      • Jim Hess permalink

        Thanks Sarah, Sounds like any of your varieties should be good for my location. Guess I better get an order in for spring delivery!

      • Cara Lee permalink

        We are just moving to New Mexico so starting over as far as trees. We understand that our area has HORRIBLE spring winds & we are planting new trees. How many years do we need to leave the trees staked?

        Also, I was talking to the “expert” at the local Lowe’s garden center & she said that a Pear tree can be used as a pollinator for an Apple tree. Sounds like a myth to me as I have never heard of this before, is it true?

        One last question, the owner of the home we are buying is a landscaper who just planted new “shade” trees in the yard but he said we would still be able to grow fruit trees within the same space. The yard area where the trees will be is only about 37′ x 50′ or 60′, will this be ok?

        • Hi Cara –

          I don’t have a good estimate of how long to leave the trees staked, especially in high-wind areas. I’d probably leave them staked for as long as possible, but you might be able to get a good answer from your local county Extension. These are your local experts who are familiar with your environment and they should be able to advise you on what works there! Find contact information for yours here:

          Big box stores may have “garden centers” but they’re not really garden centers, so it’s hit or miss when you’re looking for accurate information. Pear trees and apple trees will not cross pollinate one another.

          Dwarf fruit trees take up about 8-10 feet of space (height and width) per tree and semi-dwarf fruit trees take up about 12-15 feet of space per tree. You should be able to plant a few fruit trees in your new space, assuming the shade trees (which tend to be fast-growing) are not going to be blocking them from the sun. Fruit trees require full sun (at least 6-8 hours daily) to produce fruit and maintain quality. Hopefully the shade trees aren’t in conflict with your fruit tree plan, because it would be nice to have both! :)

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