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Productive trees yield superb-tasting fruit. Ideal for fresh eating. Also good for salads, cakes, breads, cookies, pies, and jams. Developed in New Hampshire by Professor Meader. Smooth, deep-green leaves turn a gorgeous rusty red in the fall -- a spectacular sight in the landscape, especially when accompanied by the ripe glowing-orange fruit. Cold hardy. Ripens in September to late fall. Grafted. Self-pollinating.
Plants grown in a greenhouse must be acclimated carefully before planting or placing them outdoors. This is especially true in hot or sunny locations. Many species should never be grown in full sun. Before purchasing a plant, learn about its sun requirements. Knowing the plants requirements can avoid any damage to the plant by incorrectly giving it the wrong conditions.
If your plant has been grown in a greenhouse, here are a few steps we recommend you follow:
These are general guide recommendations. Some plants take longer than others to acclimate.
Successfully establishing a young fruit tree in your yard starts with your planting site and method. Once a fruit tree is established, it needs little assistance to grow and bear fruit; but you’ll want to make sure you give your trees the right foundation.
Fruit trees require fertile soil for good growth, so before you plant, check your soil pH. Contact your local County Extension Office for information about soil testing in your area, or purchase one of our digital meters for quick and accurate results. If the soil pH where you plant your tree is 6.0-7.0, you’re in good shape. Persimmons prefer well-drained and slightly acidic soil.
Ideal location should receive full sun, although partial shade may be tolerated. Spacing varys, depending on the variety.
American: 30-50 feet apart
Oriental: 15-20 feet apart
Ichi-Ki-Kei-Jiro: 8-10 feet apart
Persimmons have a strong taproot. Don’t be alarmed at the color of the roots. They naturally appear black and should not be considered diseased or dead.
Our best advice at planting time: do not fertilize. Young persimmon trees are very sensitive to fertilizers. After a few years, if the mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10) in late winter or early spring.
Keep in mind that with persimmons, excessive fertilizing may cause premature fruit drop.
Every fruit tree has the future potential for disease and insect damage. Factors such as location and weather will play a part in which issues your tree encounters. If available, disease-resistant trees are the best option for easy care; and for all trees, proper maintenance (such as watering, fertilizing, pruning, spraying, weeding, and fall cleanup) can help keep most insects and diseases at bay.
Trees appear stunted and slow growing. Leaves may be reduced in size. Little or no fruit. If plant is dead, inspect roots for hard, woody tumors. Note: many things can cause stunted trees.
Appear as small brown or purple spots on leaves. Leaves may turn yellow and fall. Weakens the tree.
Tan to gray, 1/16” hard, scaly shell covers developing young. Usually on the bark of young twigs and branches, may also be on fruit. Sap feeding weakens the tree. Control during the dormant season and at 1/2” green in needed.
Appears as black spots on leaves, may fall from bottom upwards. Other symptoms may include black sunken spots on leaf stalks and lesions on bark.
Caused by excessive vegetative growth. Too much fertilizer can produce excess growth, as can too much pruning.
Susceptible in winter.
Small insect appear that feeds on leaves. Causes little damage except for deformed leaves.
Insects tunnel into the trunk of young trees near soil line.
Adults are ¼“ long, flat, oval shaped with a white waxy covering. Yellow to orange eggs are laid within an egg sac. Crawlers are yellow to brown in color. Over winters as an egg or very immature young in or near a white, cottony egg sac, under loose bark or in branch crotches, mostly found on north side. Damage is by contamination of fruit clusters with egg sacs, larvae, adults and honeydew, which promotes growth of black sooty mold.
Adults are tiny, white winged insects found mainly on the underside of leaves. Nymph emerge as white, flat, oval shapes. Larvae are the size of a pinhead. Suck plant juices from leaves causing them to turn yellow, appear to dry or fall off plants.
Tiny, slender, fringed wing insects ranging from 1/25 to 1/8” long. Nymphs are pale yellow and highly active and adults are usually black or yellow-brown, but may have red, black or white markings. Feed on large variety of plants by puncturing them and sucking up the contents.
Pinpoint size, many different colors. Found on undersides of leaves. Sap feeding causes bronzing of leaves. Severe infestations have some silken webbing.
It causes weak plant growth and the development of small yellow leaves. Terminal growth may be stunted or die back. Plants often collapse and die during hot weather.
Most potted fruit trees need very little initial pruning, but as the trees get older, corrective pruning may be necessary. For your persimmons, keep these pointers in mind:
Spraying is important to the survival of your trees. To handle potential diseases and pests, reference the guidelines below to know what you should spray, and when you should use it.
Before you begin, read and follow all instructions on labels.
Persimmon roots grow slowly. To achieve optimal growth and quality fruit, regular watering is required. Water your persimmon tree for 10 minutes once or twice a week in the spring and summer. Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought. Your climate will dictate whether more or less watering is needed.
Are you ready to enjoy delicious homegrown fruit? Harvest is the time to enjoy the results of your hard work. Keep a few things in consideration as you reap the fruits of your labor: the best time to pick the fruit from your tree, and how to store the fruit.
You can begin harvesting in September through late November. Some experts say that the fruit will fully ripen after the first frost of the season. Fruit color will vary from light yellow-orange to dark orange-red. When harvesting persimmons, it is best to use a shallow tray especially if your fruit is very soft. The fruit cannot handle a lot of weight and you may end up crushing the ones on the bottom.
Astringent varieties must be very soft before they are fit to eat. You can allow them to soften on the tree but it is best to harvest when hard and fully colored. This will keep away the birds, deer and other animals that get into trees.
Non-Astringent varieties can be eaten when still crisp and should be harvested when they have their full deep color and are firm. They will continue to ripen off the tree and allowing them to soften at room temperatures will help with the taste.
Annual average yield per tree is 1 bushel, 15-20 pounds at age 10.
Persimmons will keep in the refrigerator for about a month.
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Trees that are shipped without soil to ensure good contact with soil in your yard. When shipped, they are about 3-4' tall with 3/8" or larger trunk diameter. When they mature, they will be one of three sizes*:
Matures to be about 8-10' tall and wide. Provides an abundance of full-size fruit.
Matures to be about 12-15' tall and wide. Gives maximum fruit yield per square foot.
Matures to be about 15-25' tall and 20' wide. A multi-purpose fruit and shade tree.
Top-grade, bare-root trees that give you a head start on growing. When shipped, they are about 4-5' tall with 5/8" or larger trunk diameter.
Trees in bottomless pots that allow some roots to be air pruned, so that a dense mass of productive, feeder roots can grow within the pot to make transplanting easier. Mature sizes vary. When shipped, they are about 1-2' tall.
Top-grade, potted trees chosen to give you a head start on growing. When shipped to you, they are about 3-4' tall.
*Tree sizes may vary by variety. See our Growing Guide for details.