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How to Tell When Pears are Ready to Harvest

by Stark Bro's on 07/10/2012
Mature Pears on Branch

“There are only ten minutes in the life of a pear when it is perfect to eat.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

While the quote above may be an exaggeration, it does serve to highlight the fact that many growers struggle to figure out the proper ripening and eating times for pears. In this post, we will teach you everything you need to know for picking, ripening, and enjoying homegrown pears.

The Nature of Pears

Did you know pears don’t ripen on the tree?

While most types of fruit reach their peak on the branch or vine, pears need to be picked before ripening. If left on the tree, pears ripen from the inside out and, by the time they seem to be at the ripe stage, they are beyond it — usually mushy with a mealy texture beneath the skin.

To avoid such results, you must pick pears when they are mature but not yet fully ripened. Figuring out the answer to “when are pears ripe?” can be difficult. When in season, a mature pear will still be firm to the touch, so feel won’t be a strong indicator. You can’t really go by sight either; a mature pear could be a variation of colors, like green, yellow, or even blush, depending on the variety.

Mature Pears Harvested

The best way to tell if a pear is ready to harvest is by taking the fruit in your hand and tilting it horizontally. The mature fruit will easily come away from the branch at this angle (as opposed to its natural vertical hanging position). If it is not yet ready for picking, it will hold on to the branch.

Once harvested, most pears will require about a week to ripen at room temperature (about 65-72ºF). If you store the fruit in a paper bag, you can speed up this process so that it will ripen in just a few days. You may also choose to store your harvested pears with an apple or banana — fruits that are more prone to releasing ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening process.

Pear season is coming! In a typical year, it starts in August for those of us in zones 5 and 6. If you are growing your own, make sure you are prepared!

The information above applies to European Pears. Asian Pears tend to ripen just fine on the tree. To learn more about ripening and other differences between these two kinds of pears, check out our article, Growing & Preserving Pears.

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Topics → Planting & Growing, Tips


  1. Jimmy Wilkey permalink

    This question may not be appropriate here but I have two pear trees that several limbs on the tree that the leaves die soon after reaching full leaf and the fruit drops prematurely. I have sprayed with several kinds of fungacide and nothing seems to help. This problem is about three year old. Thanks Jim

    • Hi Jimmy — if you can, please send us photos of your pear trees to It may help us figure out what is going on with them. You may also contact your local county extension office so that they can come out and see your trees and advise you on what steps to take to help them.

      In the meantime, try cutting open the dropped fruit to see if there are grubs or any signs of pest damage inside. A fungicide isn’t formulated to control pests so you may need a different spray if it is a pest issue.

    • Davilyn permalink

      I have this as a re-occurring problem with several of my trees/bushes. I wasn’t sure at first what it was but I noticed that the trees and bushes that had this problem, had large black ant populations near them. Several times I tried sticking the garden hose down the hole (they will often move after that). I was stunned to realize that I could run the water almost ten minutes before it started coming back out of the hole. I believe they nest in and around the roots because it is cool and moist and in the process do some damage. Like you, each year they leaf out just fine then as the summer progresses and it gets hotter, the ants dig more to store the food they gather, and leaves fall from “some” of the branches. No answer, really, just a cause -

      • SJ Smith permalink

        I have had imported Argentina Ants do this sort of damage. They are a real nuissance.

        When the nest is away from a plant, I have found I can knock the colony back by pouring a soup pot of boiling water down the nest. It works, because the remaining ants push out the dead ones and there is a big pile the next day.

        Another thing that helps is to lightly sprinkle DE (diatomaceous earth) around the nest and trails. It’s just microscopic sea shells, so it isn’t as dangerous as many pesticides. (and it would put some calcium in your soil which pears need). Still, read directions before using. It works best when the soil is dry.

  2. Darryl Hattenhauer permalink

    My bareroot Asian hybrid pear I got from you is doing very well.

    • That’s wonderful, Darryl! Do you know which Asian Pear it is? We’d love to see any photos you have of your fruit trees any time. :)

  3. Pen permalink

    Do blackberries ouachita like iron ? My kumquats likes it but uncertain which fruit trees and bushe like it. Ph of my soil is between 6.5 and 7

    • Blackberry plants naturally take in iron from the soil, Pen. You shouldn’t need to worry about adding iron to your soil (in the form of sulfur and iron sulfate or iron chelate) unless your pH is above 8, in which the plant will suffer from iron chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves, but isn’t attributed to overwatering).

      You can also test your soil with soil kits found at your local garden center to find out if your soil already contains iron. Your local county extension office also provides a soil-testing service and can answer any follow-up questions you may have about your soil composition. :)

  4. debbie permalink

    hi, stark bros.!
    i planted a honeysweet pear this spring and she is doing wonderfully! thank you so much!
    totally love the information in your articles. from the ones on proper planting, to growing, training and pruning (still a scary thing to me), and now this one, when to harvest. will definitely bookmark this article to be ready for the first wee pears that arrive…four to six years from now (as stated in *another* entry!). yay! :D
    i must remember that patience is a virtue. :)
    the wish list for next season has already been started…thanks again!!

    • I am so glad to hear things are growing well for you, Debbie! Thank YOU for sharing with us. :D We will do our best to keep this information coming so that your growing success continues. Time flies when you grow your own, and the fruits of your labor are worth the wait. ;)

  5. Linn Burdick permalink

    Good info
    to know and we grow our fruit trees organically and need some tips.

    • Thank you, Linn! Even organic growers find a need to keep fungus and other issues from their fruit trees — fortunately there are sprays available that are natural and ideal for organic growers.

      For example, we offer an organic fungicide called Serenade® Garden Disease Control that can be used as a broad spectrum fungicide. :)

  6. Peggy Beauvais permalink

    I was just wondering about the pears on our tree today and opened my computer to find this article….thank you so much.

    • Thanks for reading, Peggy. :) What types of pears do you have growing? We’d love it if you shared photos of your harvest when they’re ready!

  7. Don permalink

    Unfortunately for those of us in the state of Michigan we have little if any fruit to pick this year. In our case nothing survived out of the thirty four trees we have not one piece of fruit, do to the early bloom, late freeze in our area we lost everything except for those pesky Black Walnuts.
    Nice information on the pears though and we do enjoy your articles.

    • That sounds an awful lot like most of our fruit here in Missouri this season, Don. If the late frost didn’t get it, the birds and squirrels (and other pests) are seeking fruit as a water source. Thank you for leaving your thoughts — we hope this information is useful to Michigan fruit-growers in future seasons. ;)

  8. John D Kirtley permalink

    Sirs: Could you please do an article on how to deal with varmints? I live in urban N. Texas and the squirrels cleaned out my young peaches. Possums, rodents and birds are also hungrily eying any ripening fruits. How do you deal with this problem in Louisiana? Thank you.

    • We’ll definitely keep this topic in mind, John. This year has been especially bad due to the late frost that killed the mulberries, which usually distracts birds from the other fruit for quite a while. The drought added to that by making water scarce so these animals are seeking hydration by eating our fruit.

      Here in Louisiana, MO we use everything from fences (tall, electric, barbed, etc), to Garden Nets, to Animal Repellent and these critters still get to some of the fruit. This season is definitely keeping us on our toes!

    • Davilyn permalink

      Get yourself a Havahart humane trap. They have them on Amazon. Get the next larger size that they recommend. We have ground squirrels here in the high desert of CA and they can eat every leaf and piece of fruit off a tree in hours. Put some peanut butter on a animal cracker and stick it on the cage inside, back of the trip metal. I caught six in four days. Relocated them far away, they recommend five miles or they will find their way back.
      I use those pinwheels that are shiny aluminum that kids play with. They are much cheaper than the shiny stuff that garden websites sell. Attach them on the outside of the bird netting. They blow in the breeze and will keep most birds away.

  9. Les Sperling permalink

    I have Sickel Pears in my yard Are these European or Asian, please?

    • Good question, Les! Seckel variety pears (as well as Bartlett, Bosc, Comice, d’Anjou, and other common names) are in the European Pear category. Asian pears, often called “apple pears” because of their round shape and crunchy texture, are a bit different as you can see here. :)

  10. Manuel Sousa permalink

    I have 2 of your pears. Red Anjou and Beurre Blanc. This year they are fruiting nicely. While my peach trees dropped their fruit about a month ago. I live in Newport RI and want to grow spectacular fruit. Figs this year are fabulous. Are there any books or does your site cover help the backyard grower?
    Thant you,

    • Your fruit trees sound like they are pretty spectacular, Manuel! It has been a tricky year for fruit production, thanks to the unusual weather.

      The Pruning Made Easy Book is actually a great tool for the backyard grower, with many more tips than just pruning — it includes building trellises and other things to keep your fruit trees/plants at the top of their game! We’re always looking into great and useful books so, if we find something new, you’ll know. ;)

      In the meantime, our Growing Guide Plant Manuals are available with information from Getting Started, to Care & Maintenance, to Harvesting.

  11. Marcy permalink

    I have a pear tree that my parents planted over 40 years ago. The tree is in bad shape and I would love to plant another one, but I don’t know what it is.

    The fruit stays firm when ripe, and even though everything says pears don’t ripen on the tree, this one does. In fact most of the pears are harvested by picking them up off the ground. They are firm, smooth textured, with exceptional taste! They don’t keep real long after picking them up though. But are firm enough to can if done right away. Also there is only one tree, but it has pears every year, with a heavier crop on every other year. And the fruit can be quite large. Greenish rust type color, that tinges to yellow. Any idea what kind of tree this is? Everyone that tastes these pears comments on how wonderful they taste. But this tree is on it’s last leg. And the the pleated woodpecker has added some more holes up the trunk. We have had some real cold winters (zone 4) and it still produces. Even with late frost. Thru all my searching online I haven’t found it.
    It is taller than was expected was supposed to be a semi dwarf but tree is taller than our power lines.
    Any ideas? Also if I cut it down in the spring, will it sprout again?

    • That does sound like an excellent tree, Marcy! If you happen to have any, please send us photos of this tree and its fruit to so we can get an idea of what it might be.

      Another thing to do would be to contact your local county extension office because they might have an idea of the varieties that grow well there, now and 40 years ago. If they have, or if they can direct you to, someone who can graft/propagate your tree for you, it may be able to be replicated! That way you can have the same fruit and production characteristics you’d been enjoying all these years because, chances are if you cut the tree down, it may not sprout again.

    • Mike permalink

      Marcy, it sounds like a pear I had in my yard for years. It may be a Kiefer pear.

    • David Kehr permalink

      You could try to propagate your tree with cuttings from it. They can be rooted and planted. that would give you a full sized tree. If you want a dwarf or semi dward tree, your new tree would need to be grafted onto the proper root stock.

    • chris permalink

      thank you for the articles.My parents have a pear tree that the fruit ripens on it or when they pick them up from the ground its supposed to be a Bartlett.I thought wrongely then that pears ripen on the tree and wasted last years harvest of the unknown pear trees I have acquired through the purchase of this place last year.after reading this I picked most of the pears off one tree as they came off easily in the horizontal position so hoping to have better luck this year I shoud know in about a week I guess. thanks again for the informational articles. chris

      • Great! Keep us posted on your pear harvest, Chris :)

        • chris permalink

          Sarah the pear harvest went great following the tips you gave here thanks for this article. chris

  12. Lisa permalink

    Our Bartlett pears never ever ripen. We have tried all the tricks, the paper bag, with an apple/bannana, in the fridge, but nothing seems to get them ripe. They just just dry up and get rubbery. Would the soil be lacking a certain nutrient? Is there something else that could prevent them from getting ripe?

    • Soil does play an important role in fruit quality, Lisa. An easy way to find out if you are lacking any nutrients where the tree is planted would be to contact your local county extension office and, for a small fee, they will instruct you how to gather soil to send in and have it tested.

      I know you said you’ve tried everything, but I feel it is important to mention a different method of ripening pears that was not mentioned above. Many people have had success keeping their pears refrigerated (at around 40ºF) for at least a month. After this time, the pears should be removed from refrigeration and left at room temperature until they ripen/soften (about two to three days). This works for a wide variety of pears, including those that aren’t harvested until after the first frost and don’t start ripening until around December, depending on your variety and location. :)

  13. Brenda Mathews permalink

    A couple years back I purchased several different fruit trees. At the time i purchased two pear trees. One died and the other is a beautiful tree, but of course does not bare. I need to purchase one or more trees and wonder about what variety to purchase and when is the best time to plant new trees.

    • The best way to make that decision easy on yourself is to choose a pear tree that will grow well in your zone and have it be a different variety from the one you already have growing. Do you happen to remember which one survived, Brenda? If you’re only getting one new pear tree, this is especially important. If you end up with the same variety as the one you have growing there, it won’t cross pollinate and you may have two nice trees and still no fruit. If you have room for more than one new pear tree, and they’re different varieties, one or both will cover your current tree’s pollination needs.

      The best time to plant, for zones 5 and warmer, could be in the fall (we ship in November when the trees are dormant for a better chance at survival) or in the early spring after the ground is workable again. Whatever works best for you! :D

  14. Sissy permalink

    We have had a Bartlett pear tree for 10 years or more and this is the first year it has ever had blossoms and the a lot of pears. It didn’t last long because it got fire blight. Through the years we have tried every spray known to man. Nothing worked so now we are cutting the tree down. To much trouble.

    • That is sad to hear that your Bartlett pear tree has been trouble for you, Sissy. Fire Blight is an awful bacterial disease for pear trees and, because it is not a fungus- or pest-related problem, typical sprays do not effectively control it. You can read more about Fire Blight here.

      If, despite the Fire Blight Spray and other care mentioned in that blog post, your tree has already proven too much for you and you’ve removed it, an ideal replacement would be a variety that has natural resistance to blight. A great example would be the Starking® Delicious™ Pear, which has all the quality and flavor of a Bartlett but happens to be “a practically blight-free tree”. :)

  15. Marcy permalink

    I’m a little confused about Kiefer pears. I have seen several different descriptions of this pear as well as many different pictures. So I’m not sure what is right. Most of what I have seen though doesn’t sound like my pear. Or look right. Again I find kieffer pear descriptions a little confusing. But I don’t think that’s what this is.
    Thanks for the input though :)

  16. patricia permalink

    My husband and I just moved into a rental house and in our front yard we have a pear tree (super excited), just wondering if I sent you a picture if you could tell me if they are ready to be picked or not? We have no clue and after reading this, by the look of our pears it may be time to pick and let them ripe. Please just e-mail me when you have the chance and thanks for your time.

    • A fruit-bearing tree is an excellent treasure to have in your new yard, Patricia! Since it isn’t reliable to tell when a pear is ready for harvest by looking, I’m afraid we wouldn’t be very effective in telling you if your pears are ready by seeing a photo. The best method would be to go to the tree, take a pear in your hand, and tilt it (don’t pull it or twist it) and when it plucks away from the branch, you’ll know it’s ready to harvest! It will most likely still need some time to ripen after harvesting, though, so it won’t be ready to eat when you pick it. ;)

  17. SO happy to find this! We inherited a pear tree when we moved into my grandparents home and every year the 100s of pears go to waste. I always pick to late or to early. I’m going to go grab a bag full tomorrow and try letting them sit on the counter to ripen. I’m hoping to make preserves and to freeze some for winter snacking.

    • That sounds great, Nicole! I’m new to canning, personally, but I’ve found a lot of useful videos, like Patti Moreno’s here, on YouTube. I wish you the best of luck! :)

  18. bob permalink

    I have 2 peach trees that I bought from Stark 6 or 8 years ago. I thought that they were Gala but they are not free stone. They are on the reds side, very sweet and ripen the 2 week of July here in RI. They even look like Gala.I remember that i got 3 Carolina Queens at the same time and they are freestone. Why would they not be freestone? Are they something else or???

    • Hi Bob — The peaches you are describing sound a lot like the 4th of July peach that we carry.

      “This early-producing variety yields crops of medium to large semi-freestone fruit that is firm, sweet and juicy.”

      They have an attractive red color, too. After taking a look at this peach, do you think it could be the peach you have growing?

  19. Anna permalink

    We have a wonderful old pear tree on our property that has been there since we moved in over twenty years ago! We have found that drying the fruit was our favorite way of preserving the pears :) They are sooo sweet it’s like eating candy so it is a perfect snack but you can also make pies and deserts using the dried fruit.

    • Growing fruit trees benefits current residents of a home as well as future residents. It truly does increase property value, and not just in dollar amount. I am so glad that someone decided to plant that pear tree so that you may enjoy its fruit all these many years later, Anna. :)

  20. Carl C permalink

    I have several different pear trees that I have ordered from you guys. This year, one of my pear trees has been putting flowers on extremely delayed times. For instance, some flowers just came on and fell off a week ago, mid July in zone 4 in Minnesota. Any thoughts?

    • This happens every once in a while, Carl. We saw a lot of this occurrence last year during the intense drought. Trees were not growing for so long, due to the heat and dryness, that once the weather cooled toward the fall, the trees thought they were waking up from dormancy and that it was spring! Trees can get a little confused, either due to extreme weather or some other form of shock, so they flower when they normally wouldn’t.

      Odds are, the flowers won’t develop into fruit but, if they do, you should pick off the fruit before it gets very big. This will avoid stress to the tree and help avoid damage in the winter. The pears won’t have enough time to ripen and leaving it on may offset your tree’s timing for preparing itself for winter.

  21. angie permalink

    Hello, I have two bartlett pear trees that have a hard moss like stuff growing on the bark. I have scrubbed it off using those rough plastic onion bags. My pears don’t look like the ones in the photos, they have to be scrubbed to get a black dirt like substance off of them before I can eat or can them. Any ideas?

    • From your description, the growth on the tree’s bark is most likely lichens — composed of a fungus and an algae — and these growths aren’t dangerous to the tree. They practically sustain one another and only use a tree as a location to grow. You can do an image search for lichens and see if this is what you are seeing on your pear trees.

      As for the fruit issues… the black stuff could be a number of things. It would be easier to tell what it might be if you have photos of your fruit with the black dirt-like substance on them. If it just rubs off and there is no issue with the fruit, it may be a type of mold — especially if it tends to be rainy and wet where the trees and fruit are growing. You can control molds with certain fungicides intended for use on fruiting pear trees (like this Garden Disease Control), but the fungicide might also kill the lichens on the tree.

      I’m curious if you have any other types of pear trees growing nearby. You mentioned your fruit not resembling the ones in the photos, but Bartlett pear trees are not typically self-pollinating and two true Bartlett pear trees won’t pollinate one another to produce fruit.

      • angie permalink

        wow! Good to know about the lichens not being harmful. There are no other pear trees known in my area. The trees have produced pears that when they are ripe they taste like they were laced with sugar, but some look like they have big butts and they don’t get as big as a standard bartlett.

  22. angie permalink

    What I mean by big butts, like big human butts, with a crack. I attributed the small size to the soil they are planted in, which is pretty much clay. I have added nitrogen, magnesium and potasium – recommened by the extension service after I had the soil tested.

  23. bethany pilcher permalink

    I have a tree in my yard we just bought this house and its august now and I started to see fruit I waited awhile I figured its a pear tree and I not for sure what to do with it do u half to bring it in a room 60 70F ? im not for sure :)

    • Now is the time of year when some pear trees are ready to start being harvested. As mentioned in the article above, a pear that is ready to be picked from the tree will let go of the branch when held in your hand and tilted horizontally. Pears will not ripen on the tree, they will become soft and mealy.

      The pears that come off in your hand are the ones that are ready to be harvested, but these will need to be ripened indoors at room temperature for several days. Storing the fruit in paper bags with other fruit (apples, bananas, etc.) can help to speed up the process.

      This video from Edible Landscaping might help as a visual example:

  24. Bonnie permalink

    We have a Bartlett Pear Tree just loaded with pears. When is it time to harvest them?
    Thank you very much.

    • Bartlett pears usually ripen around late August, give or take a week or two (depending on the weather and where you are located). You should be able to enjoy harvesting your Bartlett pears in a few weeks! :)

  25. Mariah Kimble permalink

    Another great tip is to bag and sock your fruit. Through trail and error I have found first bagging the fruit when small with sealable sandwich bags that have had the corners cut off keeps the pests out then when weather starts getting warm slip socks on over the bagged fruit. This will keep the fruit from getting sunburned.

  26. Wendi permalink

    I have a pear tree that is full of fruit. When I cut open a pear there is black grainy stuff all around the core, even though it does not appear to have any invasion by insects. What is that? Does it spread to all the pears?

    • Without seeing the issue you’re describing, two things come to mind:
      1. Plum curculio damage. If this is the culprit, you’ll notice a small crescent-shaped mark on the surface of the fruit and you might even find the small curculio beetle’s grub in the fruit, or a tunnel where the grub may have emerged.

      2. Pear core breakdown. This is thought to be a weather-related condition that affects certain varieties more than others. It is also thought to occur when fruit is left to ripen on the tree, since pears are one of a few fruits that are harvested before they’re “ripe” and allowed to ripen off the tree, as mentioned in this article. You can read more about pear core breakdown here.

  27. Vickie permalink

    My parents had 2 pear trees on their small farm. These trees always had the BEST tasting pears. One died off about 10 years ago and we were afraid that would be it, but the other tree continues to bear every year. My mother, who recently passed away at the age of 89, remembers these trees being on the farm and bearing fruit as a young girl. How can I find out what type of pear tree this is before we loose the second one too, and is there a way to ensure this line doesn’t die out? This tree has to be at least 85+ years old.

    • All living things, including trees, have a natural lifespan so, unfortunately, there isn’t a way to keep old trees from the circle of life. The good news is, you might be able to seek the skill of a (local) expert in grafting who can cut scions from the old pear tree and graft them onto a compatible rootstock. This would be a way to perpetuate the same old variety, albeit on a new tree.

      Finding out which variety it is might be a trickier task. If you have any photos of the whole tree, and some up close of the bark/leaves/fruit and/or the blossoms, it may help us (or your local experts) possibly identify the variety. It does help to know the tree sounds like it is self-pollinating (since you seem to get fruit even though the other pear tree died) although that might be due to where they are located.

  28. Joe Spear permalink

    Your comment about catching pest animals in a Havahart trap and relocating them would not ap[ply in Massachusetts, where it is illegal to relocate animals like that.

  29. Rolfe permalink


    I have a couple of old pear trees that I bought from Stark Bros. in 1988. They are doing great and produce at least some fruit every year. Although I spray these pears (Comice Bartlett and Starking Delicious) once or so in the spring along with my apples (with Sevin), I don’t know what the spraying routine should be. It seems that pears don’t need as much spray as apples, for example, but they do need some protection from the bugs. What do you advise?

    • Hi Rolfe! Here’s what the label for Sevin recommends for apples and pears:

      Spray upper and lower leaf surfaces and between fruit clusters and on small limbs and trunks to the point of runoff where pests appear. Repeat applications as necessary up to a total of eight times per year for tree fruits… but not more often than once every seven days.

      NOTE: To avoid undesired apple thinning, delay use until at least 30 days after full bloom.

      Minimum interval that must be observed between the date of the last application and the date of harvest (Apples and Pears): 3 days

      It also stresses that Sevin works on contact, so the pests must be present for the spray to have any effect. I hope this helps!

  30. cheryyl permalink

    I pick my pears when the squirrels show up. If I don’t the squirrels take EVERYTHING.

  31. Mike permalink

    I purchased three dwarf fruit trees from Miller Nurseries three years ago. A Fingerlakes peach, an Apricot, and a Nectarine.

    All three trees took off and are doing fantastic. The problem is the Nectarine is growing like crazy and has fruit that looks like dark yellow ping pong balls. Hundreds of them. They are almost tastless. The leaves do not look similar to a peach or apricot.

    By any chance is this tree from the root stock that is used in dwarf trees and just needs to be removed?

    I know this forum is about pears but thought I would ask anyway.

    • Without seeing the tree’s leaves of fruit, it’s difficult to answer with certainty, but you are probably right – it may very well be the rootstock that has grown into a fruitful tree. I’m not sure which variety the nectarine was that you had gotten from Miller, but for the most part they more than likely grafted their nectarine trees onto some type of peach rootstock.

  32. Sarah M. permalink

    I bought a 2-n-1 pear tree a couple of years ago, and I bought a Stark Supreme type. Do you have any pruning tips for this tree? I am not certain where the grafts are located. Thank you!

    • Our 2-N-1 Pear tree is what we call a “top graft”. This means one variety is located on the lower part of the trunk and the second variety is the top portion of the tree. The varieties develop branches from these two areas, so, fortunately, it’s difficult to completely remove one variety without topping the tree. (Topping a tree involves completely pruning off the top of the tree, which is not recommended anyway except for extreme cases where the top has already died.)

      As long as you make your goal for pruning your pear tree’s branches to keep the tree open to light and air circulation (remove any branches growing in toward the center of the tree) and prune off any dead, damaged, and diseased branches, you should be fine!

      • Sarah M. permalink

        Thank you! One more question – is there a maximum height for my 2-N-1 tree? In other words, will it get to be 15 feet or more?

        • The 2-N-1 Pear tree is a semi-dwarf tree so it will be about 12-15 feet tall at maturity, but you can maintain the overall height with selective pruning each year. Just trim everything back a little bit – it’s easier than having to cut a lot off later! :)

  33. Louise A. Manwaring permalink

    My seckel pears turn black, hard and cracked. This has happened the last two years. Before that, I had a large crop of beautiful sweet pears. What could be happening.

    • Have you noticed any discoloration in the tree’s leaves as well? My first instinct when I hear about black, cracked fruit in a pear tree is to think the tree may have an issue with fireblight, which commonly enters the tree through its flowers when it’s blooming. If the infection doesn’t kill the flowers first, it can spread to the fruit.

      I’m not sure where you’re located, but your local county extension should have advice on what to do about fireblight in your trees there. We offer a fireblight spray for use during bloom time in the spring, however there are other options to consider as well. Careful pruning and cleaning your clippers in between each cut is said to be one of the best ways to prevent fireblight from spreading.

      Here’s one example from West Virginia about fireblight and how to manage it:

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