Shiro Plum Tree

Majeda,
My Shiro plant is not bearing fruit yet but I think it's like any other plum when it's not riped yet it's sour but I think the Shiro plum if you picked and the color is yellowish all over even though it's hard I think you can eat it for me I like to eat a little bit harder than softer but if you picked in green color I don't think you can eat it, it's very sour, all the plum when it's not ripe the color is green and it changed to a different color when it is getting ripe my advise is picked when the color of the skin totally changed in one color even it's hard you can eat it, it maybe a little bit sour. When it's getting softer it's very sweet. I hope you can make your decision. Good luck.

I use a 10% Neem and water mixture twice a year on all my fruit trees. I also use Milky spore granules to combat Japanese Beetle grubs. The grown and newly hatched beetles did not appear to attack the Superior as much as other plums, but they did chew the leaves until I killed them with repeated sprayings of Pyrethrin Garden Insect Spray Concentrate during the active beetle weeks in June. This natural spray is only effective for a day, so it must be re-spayed whenever the beetles return - and it is very effective on this pest. Fruit flies are the major pests I see attacking the fruit, and Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew seems to be keeping them and others off of the plums. I only use natural pesticides.

For all borers including peach and plum borers and curillo plum worms use a borer spray like fertilome containing spinosad. Also tree is grafted. Well worth the purchase as it's one of my 30+ fruit trees. -Eric TX Master Gardener

Pruning is necessary, however you should not prune off more than 25% of its growth each season to keep fruit production at its full potential.

Shiro will pollinate most all other Japanese plum trees.

Shiro Plum on Myrobalan - Cummins Nursery - Fruit Trees, Scions, and ...

Visit

The habit is upright-spreading. This variety is partially self-fertile but it should be planted with another early-blooming Japanese plum for optimal cropping.

My yard is VERY wet most springs. So I planted nearly all my fruit trees (and all 3 of my plums) up about a foot. I used tree surrounds but dug into the ground below to let the root start into the soil. The last 2 years they have looked wonderful. No fruit just yet.

Last year, though, we had drought instead of water. I didn't have to water very much but my plums were content.

So I did plan for the wet but haven't exactly experienced it just yet...

Raised warts? Probably black knot - I need to ask if there's any variety immune to it. Lost a stanley, replaced with shiro, and now they've got it. Need whatever plutonium cyanide dioxin chemistry that will kill it, because the whole mess is going in the fire pit otherwise and I'm giving up.

Somewhat sour when green but rather sweet when ripe

Multiple reasons

Too much foliage.

Too much fruit on a street that can't support it.
Not enough water.

Worms, or fly larva

Remedy, spray every 3 weeks
Water and more water
Trim the tips of the tree in mid July to push the energy back to the fruit.