Ferti-Lome® Fire Blight Spray
Description
Protect your tree and plant investment!
Mix 1 tablespoon of dry concentrate per 2 1/2 gallons of water to your apple and pear trees at the beginning of blossom-time to control bacterial issues like fire blight. Repeat applications every 3-4 days until bloom time ends. Apply an additional spray 5-7 days after blooms end, when weather conditions favor the spread of diseases such as fire blight, bacterial wilt, stem rot, leaf spot, and crown gall. Do not apply when fruit is visible. May also be used on roses.
Follow the product label for more detailed instructions:
Shipping Information
Questions & Answers
I follow my University of Kentucky spray schedule for home fruit growers,
which tells me that pome fruits (apples and pears) need to be sprayed for fire blight. IT is an especially serious disease on these fruits, and that I should keep up with the recommended sprays from the time I plant my new Stark trees, not wait later in the year or the next year. I just sprayed again today with Ferti-lome Streptomycin. I have 34 trees from Stark and always follow my State recommended spray schedule. Stark has the right products for the backyard fruit grower and they give outstanding advice as well. R.S.
There are no exact instructions for use in a hose end sprayer, but here is a link to the label, perhaps this will help: //www.fertilome.com/ProductFiles/10363%20Fire%20Blight%20Spray%202oz%20ALL.pdf
This spray is recommended for use in early spring when the trees are blooming and just after the bloom period. If the trees already show signs of fire blight, it's best to prune out the infected wood, making sure to disinfect the pruning tool between each cut. Read more here: http://www.starkbros.com/growing-guide/article/got-fire-blight
I used ferti lome fire blight spray last year to spray 8 apple and pear trees that had a terrible problem with fire blight. I sprayed them twice, once at full bloom, then again about a month later.
There was no blossom wilt or any negative effects on the blooms on any of the trees that I saw. The fruit did well on all of the trees.
Without a doubt, the spray dramatically reduced the fireblight damage, especially to fruit set. There was still a few patches of fireblight to foliage in late summer, but it was minor compared to previous years.
It is an antibiotic, because fire blight is a bacterial infection. To my knowledge it won't hurt honey bees, and i sprayed trees in bloom with it, but you may want to check with bee experts or county extension offices. It contains streptomycin sulfate, which is a strong antibiotic.
The label states: To control Fire Blight in home plantings, apply 1 tablespoon in 21⁄2 gallons of water (equivalent to 100 ppm or 4 ozs. per 50 gallons of water) in foliar and blossom sprays. Make first spray at the start of blossoming period. Continue spray applications every 3 to 4 days during bloom time. Apply additional sprays every 5 to 7 days after blossom period when weather conditions favor spread of Fire Blight. Do not apply when fruit is visible.
Yes but I assume you mean in an alternating spray regimen. I would not double up and spray together. Fire Blight is nasty stuff and not cured. Pruning diseased limb tips is part of the solution. I found spraying several times at pink tip and then while open, reduced infection significantly using Fertilome. If growing different varieties, you may have distinct bloom periods which complicates and extends spring spraying. You can buy newer varieties that resist FB but the fun for me is growing heirlooms and there lies the problem. The Fertilome product is pricey if you have many trees to treat. Have not tried white vinegar (2 cups/gal) and some say it works. To keep costs in line, I will try vinegar this fall and spring 2021. I will also experiment with using MILSTOP as an alternating companion to vinegar. Milstop can be used without health concerns.. Terry
Fire blight is a bacterial disease which typically infects trees via the flowers by insects spreading it. Therefore, one can prevent infection by spaying with antibiotic during flowering. After flowering, when infection already occurred, one treats the disease. The latter is possible with frequent spraying (every few days and after every rain), combined with cutting away infected branches. I suggest cutting away infected parts at the first sight of infection (leaves hanging down), well below the affected area to stop further spreading.
I spray just as my tree begins to bloom, again when it is in full bloom, and
once more as most of the petals are dropping. If there is a heavy rain during
this time, I reapply. If fire blight appears during the summer, I cut the affected branch off several inches below the diseased area and apply then.
My trees had a bad case of fire blight and had no apples. I sprayed at 5-7 day intervals through out the season as I live on Cape Cod and have high humidity and frequent fog.
I spray during the day with plenty of time to dry before moisture of any sort. Since then the trees were attacked by the Winter Moth larvae which gave me no flower buds. Why do I bother.
Customer Reviews
I cut all limbs close to tree. Then sprayed liberally in each cut.
Now both trees are leafing out perfectly with no sign of fire blight.
I will keep u posted. But so far so good!
Desperate to control fast moving fire blight.. TBH already ordered another tree to replace but worth a shot to try to save it.
I have cedar trees close to my apple and pear trees. Want to prevent fire blight.
I have fire blight on young pear tree.
I have young pear trees and want to protect them from fire blight.