Heritage Red Raspberry Plant

Yes, I have mine in large cloth pots with pebbles at the bottom. I have three in a row next to one another and I wrap all three in one long sheet of frost fabric (I use staples to close the ends) for the winter and they did great! They kinda look like a mummy in my yard over the winter, haha!

New canes that come up in the spring are called primocanes. If the variety is "ever-bearing," those canes will bear fruit later that same season; then they will have a second fruiting the following spring or early summer (depending on your area). In this "second year," the canes are called floricanes. After this second fruiting, these floricanes die. About the same time, you should notice new canes (primocanes) appearing, and the cycle starts all over again.

If the raspberries are not an ever-bearing variety, they will not fruit that first season on the primocanes; they will not fruit until the following spring/early summer, on the floricanes. At this point the floricanes will die, new canes should appear in your stand, and the cycle repeats.

Thus, ever-bearing raspberries have two fruiting times: in the late summer/early autumn, on the primocanes, and then again in the spring/early summer, on the floricanes, after which they die.

I agree with Abby....who wouldn't want as many red raspberries as possible! But if you think the berries are too small, it's possible there is too much competition among the canes. Also,if you notice mold on the leaves, the canes could be too close, impeding good air circulation.. In either case, you'd probably do well to thin the stand.

We have similar soil....I worked in peat moss and manure last spring before planting the bare root planting stalks. This year they're going crazy....so it must have worked. Good luck.

My Heritage Red did provide some berries the first season, though not many. I am now beginning the second season and there are LOTS of new canes coming up, so this second year there should be many more berries. The first year only one cane came up from the root, so I only got the berries on that one cane. This year there are more than ten canes per plant.

I've never seen a seedless raspberry, but they don't bother me. If you must, strain the juice and make jelly. I prefer fresh or in baked goods as whole as possible.

Once your raspberry plants have put on enough growth (which may not be until after their first year with you), aim to prune in the early spring, just as new growth emerges.

Prune young canes back until they are around 4 to 5 feet tall. This will discourage overgrowth and shading and will improve fruit production and quality.
Completely prune back and remove all skinny, dead, damaged, diseased or otherwise weak canes. As your raspberry plants mature, it is recommended that you cut back the small, thin canes to leave only about 8 to 10 of the strongest ones.

Raspberries transplant best when they are dormant. For your fresh, first year canes this could be after they have stopped growing for the season. For second year canes you would want to wait until you have harvested the fall crop. Best time to transplant is generally late fall or early spring. Transplanting is a shock to any plant but done right they will recover well. Good soil prep and proper watering will help them adapt to their new home quickly. Hope this helps.

Yes there are thorns on each limb. This did not keep any child from harvesting a quick handful of berries.

We transplanted bare root shoots last year and got some fruit. But it wasn’t much. The next year, they will produce. That is of course seeing that the ground is good and a freeze doesn’t knock them out. The year before last, a freeze stunted our bare root transplants and they did not produce until the next year.